Shivling Peak Expedition
Technical mountaineering expedition starting from Dehradun to the iconic granite spire of Shivling Peak (6,543m) above Tapovan.
Overview
Very Difficult
6,543m (21,466ft)
20 Days
May - June, Sep - Oct
4-6 People
UttarakhandParticipation Requirements
- ✓Advanced technical mountaineering certification (BMC + AMC mandatory)
- ✓Proven ice climbing, rock climbing, and fixed-rope ascender experience
- ✓High altitude stamina and physical medical fitness certificate
What’s Included
- ✓Transportation from Dehradun to Gangotri and return drive to Dehradun
- ✓Gangotri guesthouse & high-altitude dome camping tents
- ✓All meals, high-altitude energy foods, and hot drinks
- ✓IMF peak booking fees, climbing permits, environmental fees, and insurance for staff
- ✓Certified IFMGA/NIM climbing guide leader, high-altitude porters, and cook crew
- ✓Fixed ropes, snow bars, ice screws, rock pitons, and safety equipment
What’s not Included
- ✗Personal climbing kit (harness, crampons, ice axe, mountaineering boots, helmet)
- ✗Personal travel and rescue insurance
- ✗Evacuation or unscheduled stay charges
Expedition Itinerary
Day 1: Dehradun to Gangotri (240 km / 8–9 hrs)
Morning pickup at Dehradun ISBT / Railway Station. Scenic drive along Bhagirathi valley via Mussoorie, Tehri, Uttarkashi, and Harsil. Arrive in Gangotri (3,048m) guesthouse.
Day 2: Gangotri Acclimatization & Local Excursion
Acclimatization walk to Surya Kund and Gangotri temple. Climbing gear check and IMF permit verification.
Day 3: Gangotri to Chirbasa (9 km / 4 hrs)
Trek along Bhagirathi gorge inside Gangotri National Park to Chirbasa pine forest camp (3,600m).
Day 4: Chirbasa to Bhojwasa (5 km / 3 hrs)
Short trek to Bhojwasa (3,800m) with panoramic views of Bhagirathi massif peaks.
Day 5: Bhojwasa to Tapovan Base Camp (8 km / 5 hrs)
Trek past Gaumukh snout (3,892m), cross Gangotri glacier moraine, and climb steep rocky ridge to Tapovan Base Camp (4,463m).
Day 6: Tapovan Base Camp Setup & Mountain Puja
Establish base camp facing Shivling spire. Conduct traditional mountain puja for climbing safety.
Day 7: Load Ferry to Advance Base Camp (ABC 5,000m)
High altitude load ferry of technical climbing equipment, tents, and fixed ropes up to ABC.
Day 8: Establish Advance Base Camp (ABC)
Move to Advance Base Camp (5,000m) beneath the steep lower ice wall of Shivling.
Day 9: Fixing Ropes on Lower Ice Wall
Lead climbers fix static ropes on 50-degree ice slopes and rock gully.
Day 10: Establish Camp 1 (5,400m)
Climb fixed lines to set up high Camp 1 on snow ledge.
Day 11: Load Ferry to Camp 1
Transport high-altitude food, oxygen cylinders, and summit gear from ABC to Camp 1.
Day 12: Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,900m)
Technical climb through granite chimney and steep ice headwall to establish Camp 2.
Day 13: Rest & Summit Window Briefing at Camp 2
Rest and hydration day at Camp 2. Weather window review and summit briefing.
Day 14: SUMMIT PUSH: Camp 2 to Shivling Summit (6,543m) & Return
Midnight 2:00 AM start. Traverse sharp knife-edge snow ridge to reach the 6,543m summit of Mt. Shivling. Rappel back to Camp 2.
Day 15: Reserve Summit Day / Weather Contingency
Reserve contingency day for bad weather or secondary summit attempt.
Day 16: Descend Camp 2 to Advance Base Camp
Carefully descend fixed lines from Camp 2 back to ABC.
Day 17: ABC to Tapovan Base Camp
Pack down ABC high camp and return to main Tapovan Base Camp.
Day 18: Base Camp Waste Cleanup & Eco-Restoration
Comprehensive cleanup of all camping waste following Leave-No-Trace eco rules.
Day 19: Tapovan to Gangotri (22 km / 7 hrs)
Long descent trek back via Bhojwasa and Chirbasa to Gangotri guesthouse.
Day 20: Gangotri to Dehradun (240 km / 8–9 hrs)
Morning return vehicle transfer to Dehradun ISBT / Railway Station.
Ready to Take the Challenge?
From ₹2,65,000 | Next Departure: 15 May, 2025
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